Waterbomb Modular Instructions

Standard disclaimer:  The simpler the unit the more likely it’s been done before, please post information and links if you’ve seen it, done it, or something very similar.  Creative commons applies to all and have a happy new year.

30 units

12 and 6 units respectively

1.  Fold in half.   2.  flip over and fold bottom edge to center, same on top.   3.  What it should look like.

4.  Fold quarter fold to center repeat on top   5.  Vertical view.  6.  Side view.

7, 8.  Fold bottom edge to right edge and then bottom edge to left edge. 9.  Collapse to a waterbomb.  Repeat on other side.

10.  Fold in half to the smooth sides of the two waterbombs meet.  Refer to picture 11.  that is the final unit

I recommend the 12 or 30 unit first as they are easier to assemble.  Refer to picks for connections at each vertex.  The twelve unit is functionally a cube and the 30 unit a dodecahedron.

Happy holidays from sock monkey.

Advertisements

New modular “Woven Wreath”/”Sun Dial” and some links I like

For people who have sent requests for things I apologize as I spent the better part of the last three weeks away from home and if it is for computer based candy container diagrams my other computer is not functioning right now.  I will send stuff when I have the computer up and running.  

As usual if anyone has seen this modular please post information and links as applicable.  The unit was designed to create the same effect (although with a completely seperate unit) that another 3d wreath has.  The units are not remotely similar, and sadly my unit does not have the flexibility or strength that the other one has.  The modular can be done in 8 or 20 depending on the variation, of which there are many.  The instructions are for the 20 unit variation.  As for the oddly bolded sections that is something the blog is doing and I can’t fix-since wordpress is free I can’t complain.

 

 

 

1.  Get 20 square sheets.  I recommend between 4-6 inches square.  Fold in half diagonally.

2.  Fold as indicated and crease and then undo.

3.  Fold the bottom right edge to crease line

4.  Fold tips around edge and tuck them inside.

5.  Take top point and fold to bottom point and crease.

6.  Take the two flaps folded in the last step and fold inside the pocket.  You will have to reverse the direction of the crease on the front fold.

7.  Put the unit sideways and fold the tip so it is roughly parallel with the vertex of the obtuse angle.  Do it one and then rotate the unit and do it the other way.

8.  Take the top point and fold down to 1/3 from the bottom and then let fold the unit back on step sevens creases.

8.  Finished unit, make twenty total

9.  Tuck in as indicated.  Make sure that you are tucked in on both sides.

10.  Keep adding units until you have the original photo.

 

Some fun sites.

http://www.archicentral.com/origami-chapel-st-loup-switzerland-local-architecture-771/

http://www.designshell.com/architecture/origami-inspired-bamboo-house.html

http://fcms.its.utas.edu.au/scieng/arch/cpage.asp?lCpageID=267

http://www.architecture.com.au/awards_search?option=showaward&entryno=2008031648

http://www.internimagazine.it/Dynamic/Publication,intCategoryID,72,intIssueID,306,intLangID,2.html

Instructions for Pleated Origami Dress From a Square

1.  This starts from a square.  I recommend a thin paper, kami is fine.  Fold in half lengthwise and then quarter.  

2.  Then fold in eighths as shown above.

3.  Flip over.

4.  From the eighth crease to the left of the center crease you will fold it 1/3 away from the center line.  You will repeat this action 2 more times on  that side.  Then repeat on the other side.

5.  Mountain fold to a little less than a third away from the bottom.  A lot of these folds are to taste.

6.  Then fold back up-about a quarter inch.

7,8.  A little less than a half inch below mountain fold and then bring it back down about a quarter.  This is the belt area and will be fairly thick.  Mountain fold the dress back down to get the belt as shown in the picture.

9.  You are spreading  the pleat in the back so the edge from the tip of the pleat goes to the bottom of the dress. It folds back on the first pleat.  You can see the light mountain folds in the previous step.   The spread to the top is to taste.

 

10.  If you like the neckline as is you’re done, otherwise(this works better if the belt is bigger and the bodice shorter)….To do the neckline mountain fold as indicated symmetrically on both sides.  Fold the rest on a curve to taste.  

11.  To flatten on the back you will need to spread the pleats a bit.

12.  These are minor variations.  I did a small inside reverse fold on the bottom, then I did it to the other side.  The final dress I pulled apart the skirt pleats lightly and enlarged the belt so it became more of a bodice.

 

It is easy to play with these and simple corrugations will work fine in the skirt area.  Changing the size of the belt and how you fold the neckline can greatly modify the aesthetics of the dress.  Plus it would be easy to play with the bodice pleats.

“Takeout” Box Instructions and First Pillow Test

This is one of those folds that is so simple that I suspect it has to have been designed before. What I really like about it is it’s strength and good use of paper. Its 3 in high and a 3.5 by 3.5 inch. Given that this vellum started out as a regular 8.5×11 cut into a 8.5 inch square I think the space that is kept is great and it is very strong, as demonstrated

As is usual if this has been done before please post applicable information and a link if possible.

Instructions start here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/christine42/3205167722/

Also I am posting a really rough first draft of a pillow based off the Oceania Box. Eric’s comment about made me think about some earlier faux suede I tried tessellating this summer. I think I may have to suck it up and buy some real suede or leather to get the body that I want for the design.

The faux suede does not have enough body to hold the separated to curve the pleats. Freehanding the ironing not a good idea. My eyeball isn’t that good. I should sew across the base of the pleats before sewing for assembly. When I bought this I was at an upholstery fabric store. I absolutely loved a vivid turquoise blue leather that I saw, this was bought in place of leather cause of cost. I will play with this more when I have time.

Origami Tessellation – “Framed Star Tessellation” Instructions

As some of you know I am fascinated with three dimensional tessellations. This is a different and much simpler process than I typically use, so I figured it lent itself more to online instructions. This does assume a certain level of ability. First the grid should really be 32nds if you want to get repeated stars. 16ths would allow you to make about one star I suspect. The grid I used was 48ths. For instructions on how to make a grid link to Eric’s origami tessellations website and look it up and that also goes for a triangle twist.

Step one is creating the first triangle twist.

Secondly you arrange the grid as shown, as if to do another triangle twist. But don’t!

Push the tip, where the lines intersect in.

From the edge of the pushed in hexagon go over two spaces and arrange the pleats as if you are going to create a triangular twist. The repeat the “concave” hexagon.

Then going upwards from the new concave hexagon do the same thing. I also added a triangle twist on the outer edge of the emerging larger hexagon. Then another triangle twist on the middle “concave” hexagon.

Keep repeating around, till you have formed a hexagon of the pushed in hexagons. The triangle twists are in the directions shown below, every other one faces the other.

The other side is where it gets its name. This is the basic unit. The process repeats from each of the triangle twists. Refer to the first two pictures for the full tessellation.

The nice thing is once you’ve constrained the free paper there are at least 10 easy mods that will change the form completely. I’ll leave them to you to find, but remember part of origami is discovery. Push things in a little differently and a new design is born.

Enjoy,

Christine

Soon I have a pillow that is a test I’ll publish.  The front is done I just need to pull out my sewing machine and filler.   I also had some earlier tests that collected dust, as most stuff I test does (by the necessity of time)   I pulled out and started playing with.  I am currently not friends with my  iron though.  I might splurge on a cord free one and I think I’ve come around to “investing” (that’s the word I’m using instead of indulging) in a craftrobo pro.