Archive for the ‘origami in fashion’ Category
1. First fold the dollar bill lengthwise with a mountain fold using the top and bottom of the one as a guide.
2. Fold over between one to two mm to the outside. This is to taste.
3. Mountain fold in half.
4. First orient the dollar bill like below. Take the crease and fold up to the inner part of the O.
5. Mountain fold so you are folding across the semicircle.
6. Fold the semicircle up to about the tip of the pyramid.
7.On an angle fold back the bottom edge of the bustier. The top part of the skirt angles because of a spreas squash. I recommend looking ahead to the next few steps first.
8. View from the back. Do the same symmetrically to the other side.
9. Back View-flip over.
10. Front view.
11. Fold down so there is about as much white as color.
12. Fold back up so the white is the bustier edge detail
13. Mountain fold edges on either side to shape bustier
14. Pull the center flap down
15. Flatten symmetrically as shown.
16. Shape edge of lower skirt on both sides symmetrically
17. Fold the bottom up to taste. In the back fold over the edges that are sticking out and tuck under the pleat at the waist. Pull apart the creases at the bottom to give 3 dimensionality to the bottom. It will not necessarily lie flat.
18. Now I push the pleat apart where the bust should be to make the bustier 3d. You are expanding the pleat only at the tip of the breast and then flattening the new creases. You can see the side view.
19. The last step is to push down the centerbar so that the bustier is more 3d and you only see the white band. Then you are done. Shape till happy.
1. This starts from a square. I recommend a thin paper, kami is fine. Fold in half lengthwise and then quarter.
2. Then fold in eighths as shown above.
3. Flip over.
4. From the eighth crease to the left of the center crease you will fold it 1/3 away from the center line. You will repeat this action 2 more times on that side. Then repeat on the other side.
5. Mountain fold to a little less than a third away from the bottom. A lot of these folds are to taste.
6. Then fold back up-about a quarter inch.
7,8. A little less than a half inch below mountain fold and then bring it back down about a quarter. This is the belt area and will be fairly thick. Mountain fold the dress back down to get the belt as shown in the picture.
9. You are spreading the pleat in the back so the edge from the tip of the pleat goes to the bottom of the dress. It folds back on the first pleat. You can see the light mountain folds in the previous step. The spread to the top is to taste.
10. If you like the neckline as is you’re done, otherwise(this works better if the belt is bigger and the bodice shorter)….To do the neckline mountain fold as indicated symmetrically on both sides. Fold the rest on a curve to taste.
11. To flatten on the back you will need to spread the pleats a bit.
12. These are minor variations. I did a small inside reverse fold on the bottom, then I did it to the other side. The final dress I pulled apart the skirt pleats lightly and enlarged the belt so it became more of a bodice.
It is easy to play with these and simple corrugations will work fine in the skirt area. Changing the size of the belt and how you fold the neckline can greatly modify the aesthetics of the dress. Plus it would be easy to play with the bodice pleats.
So I’ve been playing with the idea of tessellated jewelry for awhile. These are my first tests. Currently held together by the natural occuring pleats. I am contemplating different attachments currently. Basic tess design on left (refer to Eric’s website for pattern origamitessellations.com for a pattern) and slightly modified 3d pattern on right.
Old box I found that wasn’t damaged from move. I havn’t posted it yet because I was initially planning to diagram(then lost the box). Uses a basic tess that Fuse also uses (thanks for the info Ray) for the side decoration.