Archive for the ‘origami diagrams’ Category
So I was in Wisconsin, at Lake Harris. I think winter is the time that we are gifted with seeing a tree’s architecture. The pristine lines don’t err and aim towards the heavens against a backdrop of Robin’s egg blue. The stark Birches and lily white snow were beautiful if bitterly cold. So amidst the joy of grading papers I folded.
Oceania Box-Older box, but one that I still like. I don’t think I’ve posted it here before.
Partial Diagram: After step 6 just make a standard masu box. The edge reference for the edge of the box is the first pleat from the edge. Make two. Then pull apart the sections carefully, fanning them out. Make two.
In Wisconsin I played around with 2d modulars again. Before I post instructions I would like to know if they are already floating out there in the origami ether. If you recognize them please state who and a link if possible. I checked out a site moduladia? and a site by a gentleman whose website escapes me at the moment. So if the designs and or modules look familiar I do appreciate information before I bother trying to diagram.
Last thing from the cold northwoods is a tessellation. Was originally going to do a mask , but sadly that, as usual, was pushed to the side. So here it is backlit.
Hope you all have a safe and happy new year.
This bowl is part of a curved computer aided tessellation I am working on. The collapsing of it is going poorly, but looking at a bowl of Philips I realized it might make a good bowl if I used one iteration overlaid in a circle. The original design is based on a equilateral triangle. The design works with any number of sides of a polygon with little modification.
To complete print out the crease pattern below as large as will fit on a sheet of paper.
Then score the creases following the lines above. I recommend a pen that no longer has ink. Then make the creases as shown below.
This is the bottom.
This is the top.
To try the five sided bowl the crease pattern is below.
Links that I sent to the o-list but forgot to given the e-mail a subject.
Some origami in fashion links.
This is more tangentially related. The fabrics were inspired by traditional papers and they may have origami birds on one blouse, but the pic wasn’t good enough to be positive.
shoes that appear to have little leather blintz folds.
Chair and stool with origami design influence
Purse with a fold or two.
While I am sure you are all familiar with Sipho Mabona’s extraordinary work, he has a website that is as exquisitely constructed as his designs. Check out his site. My favorite pick is his Multiple white Koi picture. Bella.
So lately I have been sidetracked from my pleating by the ingenius Polly Verity. She has inspired me to start playing with curves. I bought a CAD program ViaCAD and have been rather obsessed lately, although that is starting to subside, more because the last two crease patterns I made didn’t work on the first try. I tend to discard things if they don’t work the first time around, a habit I am working to get past. So below are two crease patterns for two units and the pictures of what the finished units look like. I highly recommend you score with a stylus or a dead pen before you fold the creases. These can be tessellated and I recommend you use cardstock or some heavier paper although you can do them in copy paper. The designs make me think of futuristic architecture and are surprisingly strong.
There are more crease patterns and designs here http://flickr.com/photos/christine42/ . Everything is as usual creative commons release.
I’ve posted to my flickr account the crease patterns and some pics to help fold this. The one above is out of 6″ cami. I suggest using 12″ if possible, 8″ minimum and a thicker paper than cami.
The crease pattern is predominantly angle bisectors. There are only a few folds that arn’t from natural reference points. If you have problems print out the rough crease pattern and fold it to find the reference points.
Best of Luck
Stellated 12-gon. If you skip step 5 or vary the distance of the fold you change the number of modules needed. Given an n-gon the smaller the fold to the center the larger n (i.e. the number of bills) is.
Had to redo the diagrams as the originals went to the Land of the Lost. The second group of photos is work on combining boxpleating and goran pleating with deconstruction. This is most recent in a series. If interested more shots are on flickr. http://flickr.com/photos/christine42/ I also tested some flax with this pleating to see how it held up. If I can get large enough sheets I will probably also do some more with flax.
So I’ve been playing with the idea of tessellated jewelry for awhile. These are my first tests. Currently held together by the natural occuring pleats. I am contemplating different attachments currently. Basic tess design on left (refer to Eric’s website for pattern origamitessellations.com for a pattern) and slightly modified 3d pattern on right.
Old box I found that wasn’t damaged from move. I havn’t posted it yet because I was initially planning to diagram(then lost the box). Uses a basic tess that Fuse also uses (thanks for the info Ray) for the side decoration.
Oh St. Patty’s day is near!!! For many (I am only speaking of Chicago, cause that’s what I know) it is special day celebrated in any place that serves alcohol, by the Green Chicago River, or at the parade. In honor of such a green holiday I am posting triangular pyramid tip box instructions and a Celtic cross modular (In deference to it being the holiday of a saint and all.) The tip box is made from a bill and closes. You can fit the coins that go with the tip in it. Remember your server is harried and tip generously. The box was inspired by this box from Lorenzo Marchi. http://flickr.com/photos/lorenzomarchi/227362566/
The modular is of an almost identical unit that an Italian folder, Franco Pavarin, published, with one difference. I wrap a section around another section that forces a color change and it does change assembly methodology a bit. Thanks to Mark Kennedy for helping me get the information to clear that up. I like my unit better because it is stronger during assembly for at least the one completed modular. I made two with his and as I found the assembly to be harder. Soon I will post the 15 assembly varients I made.
Tip Box Instructions
1. Fold the creases as shown. Make the crease bidirectional i.e. fold in in both directions.
2. The vertices of the two squares are pulled down to meet each other. This action cause the basic two triangular pyramids to form.
3. In the triangle that is in the middle you are pushing up the triangle tip. You are using pre-existing creases.
4. Inside I pink the edges of the pyramid and flatten them clockwise. The second picture is what the bottom looks like.
5. You are flipping up the rim of the top of the container all the way around.
6. The bit of bill connecting the top and the bottom needs to be creased so the top can fit in the bottom.
7. The extra flap needs to be folded so it is the same size as the rim. I folded it in on pre-existing creases.
8. The tips are folded in so that the flap can hold the lid closed.
9. Congratulations close the box…you are done.
This modular is an amazing frisbee and while I don’t necessarily advocate “throwing money around” in this case I say make an exception. Quite thick at the edges, but it is a sturdy octagon.
Very crude instructions here http://www.flickr.com/photos/christine42/2327491169/in/photostream/
Pentagonal Star-Really Pentagonalish. Although it lies flat the fit is not perfect. Not a unique style connection, but I like pentagons.
Varients on previously diagrammed model. Hexagon in Embedded Star and Embedded star. The first is a forced fold, not natural and does not lie flat. The second is the flat variation.
Same disclaimer/request if you have seen these please post applicable designers and links. Thanks:)