Archive for the ‘free’ Category
Standard disclaimer: The simpler the unit the more likely it’s been done before, please post information and links if you’ve seen it, done it, or something very similar. Creative commons applies to all and have a happy new year.
1. Fold in half. 2. flip over and fold bottom edge to center, same on top. 3. What it should look like.
4. Fold quarter fold to center repeat on top 5. Vertical view. 6. Side view.
7, 8. Fold bottom edge to right edge and then bottom edge to left edge. 9. Collapse to a waterbomb. Repeat on other side.
10. Fold in half to the smooth sides of the two waterbombs meet. Refer to picture 11. that is the final unit
I recommend the 12 or 30 unit first as they are easier to assemble. Refer to picks for connections at each vertex. The twelve unit is functionally a cube and the 30 unit a dodecahedron.
Happy holidays from sock monkey.
So I have ended up on a tangent that I would eventually like to use for posting tutorials for my students and have lectures students can view if absent. So I decided to try to create an origami tutorial. I may have done this design before I sadly don’t remember. Editing is a challenging business, as is seeing yourself (in all your redundant glory) on camera. So for those who do post tutorials online kudos, it’s a lot harder than it looks. I will within the next week post about Italy, but this comes first since it’s done. Bear with me as it is my first attempt at video instruction and it is not polished all pretty, plus I am using the camera in my mac which doesn’t allow for as much flexibility in filming. Youtube said it’s processing so here you go, remember creative commons applies to all unless stated otherwise. Happy holidays.
Below is an corrugated automata that doesn’t inch the way I originally plan, but sometimes the best laid plans fail.
So I reverse engineered a box for a friend that has the origins listed as a Japanese Anemone box that Christiane recognized as similar to a Fujimoto box. They are all variations on a theme. So I decided to play with curvature on these boxes and the results are below along with nondirectional crease patterns. What was so interesting is that a slight change with where the curvature is makes a large difference in the end product. So everything is creative commons on this site as always. Hope you enjoy. If you would like the viacad or adobe illustrator files email me and I can send them so you can tweak the design yourself. Remember playing with a design is half the fun.
This particular design is reminiscent of the collapsible lids. I also employed these nibs in a box I did awhile back.
1. First fold the dollar bill lengthwise with a mountain fold using the top and bottom of the one as a guide.
2. Fold over between one to two mm to the outside. This is to taste.
3. Mountain fold in half.
4. First orient the dollar bill like below. Take the crease and fold up to the inner part of the O.
5. Mountain fold so you are folding across the semicircle.
6. Fold the semicircle up to about the tip of the pyramid.
7.On an angle fold back the bottom edge of the bustier. The top part of the skirt angles because of a spreas squash. I recommend looking ahead to the next few steps first.
8. View from the back. Do the same symmetrically to the other side.
9. Back View-flip over.
10. Front view.
11. Fold down so there is about as much white as color.
12. Fold back up so the white is the bustier edge detail
13. Mountain fold edges on either side to shape bustier
14. Pull the center flap down
15. Flatten symmetrically as shown.
16. Shape edge of lower skirt on both sides symmetrically
17. Fold the bottom up to taste. In the back fold over the edges that are sticking out and tuck under the pleat at the waist. Pull apart the creases at the bottom to give 3 dimensionality to the bottom. It will not necessarily lie flat.
18. Now I push the pleat apart where the bust should be to make the bustier 3d. You are expanding the pleat only at the tip of the breast and then flattening the new creases. You can see the side view.
19. The last step is to push down the centerbar so that the bustier is more 3d and you only see the white band. Then you are done. Shape till happy.
1. This starts from a square. I recommend a thin paper, kami is fine. Fold in half lengthwise and then quarter.
2. Then fold in eighths as shown above.
3. Flip over.
4. From the eighth crease to the left of the center crease you will fold it 1/3 away from the center line. You will repeat this action 2 more times on that side. Then repeat on the other side.
5. Mountain fold to a little less than a third away from the bottom. A lot of these folds are to taste.
6. Then fold back up-about a quarter inch.
7,8. A little less than a half inch below mountain fold and then bring it back down about a quarter. This is the belt area and will be fairly thick. Mountain fold the dress back down to get the belt as shown in the picture.
9. You are spreading the pleat in the back so the edge from the tip of the pleat goes to the bottom of the dress. It folds back on the first pleat. You can see the light mountain folds in the previous step. The spread to the top is to taste.
10. If you like the neckline as is you’re done, otherwise(this works better if the belt is bigger and the bodice shorter)….To do the neckline mountain fold as indicated symmetrically on both sides. Fold the rest on a curve to taste.
11. To flatten on the back you will need to spread the pleats a bit.
12. These are minor variations. I did a small inside reverse fold on the bottom, then I did it to the other side. The final dress I pulled apart the skirt pleats lightly and enlarged the belt so it became more of a bodice.
It is easy to play with these and simple corrugations will work fine in the skirt area. Changing the size of the belt and how you fold the neckline can greatly modify the aesthetics of the dress. Plus it would be easy to play with the bodice pleats.
Happy early Valentine’s Day.
I had posted a heart box and said instructions were forthcoming so here they are http://www.flickr.com/photos/christine42/3241811189/in/photostream/ . This is a simple design, but I have not seen the locking mechanism or the heart edges before. (Standard disclaimer for anything I design and post) If you have seen the box before please post applicable links and/or information. My recommendation is you work with a heavier paper. Copy paper or ultrabright paper works just fine. I like a 7-8 inch square to start out with although a 6 inch works. Best of luck.
As some of you know I am fascinated with three dimensional tessellations. This is a different and much simpler process than I typically use, so I figured it lent itself more to online instructions. This does assume a certain level of ability. First the grid should really be 32nds if you want to get repeated stars. 16ths would allow you to make about one star I suspect. The grid I used was 48ths. For instructions on how to make a grid link to Eric’s origami tessellations website and look it up and that also goes for a triangle twist.
Step one is creating the first triangle twist.
Secondly you arrange the grid as shown, as if to do another triangle twist. But don’t!
Push the tip, where the lines intersect in.
From the edge of the pushed in hexagon go over two spaces and arrange the pleats as if you are going to create a triangular twist. The repeat the “concave” hexagon.
Then going upwards from the new concave hexagon do the same thing. I also added a triangle twist on the outer edge of the emerging larger hexagon. Then another triangle twist on the middle “concave” hexagon.
Keep repeating around, till you have formed a hexagon of the pushed in hexagons. The triangle twists are in the directions shown below, every other one faces the other.
The other side is where it gets its name. This is the basic unit. The process repeats from each of the triangle twists. Refer to the first two pictures for the full tessellation.
The nice thing is once you’ve constrained the free paper there are at least 10 easy mods that will change the form completely. I’ll leave them to you to find, but remember part of origami is discovery. Push things in a little differently and a new design is born.
Soon I have a pillow that is a test I’ll publish. The front is done I just need to pull out my sewing machine and filler. I also had some earlier tests that collected dust, as most stuff I test does (by the necessity of time) I pulled out and started playing with. I am currently not friends with my iron though. I might splurge on a cord free one and I think I’ve come around to “investing” (that’s the word I’m using instead of indulging) in a craftrobo pro.
This bowl is part of a curved computer aided tessellation I am working on. The collapsing of it is going poorly, but looking at a bowl of Philips I realized it might make a good bowl if I used one iteration overlaid in a circle. The original design is based on a equilateral triangle. The design works with any number of sides of a polygon with little modification.
To complete print out the crease pattern below as large as will fit on a sheet of paper.
Then score the creases following the lines above. I recommend a pen that no longer has ink. Then make the creases as shown below.
This is the bottom.
This is the top.
To try the five sided bowl the crease pattern is below.
Links that I sent to the o-list but forgot to given the e-mail a subject.
Some origami in fashion links.
This is more tangentially related. The fabrics were inspired by traditional papers and they may have origami birds on one blouse, but the pic wasn’t good enough to be positive.
shoes that appear to have little leather blintz folds.
Chair and stool with origami design influence
Purse with a fold or two.
While I am sure you are all familiar with Sipho Mabona’s extraordinary work, he has a website that is as exquisitely constructed as his designs. Check out his site. My favorite pick is his Multiple white Koi picture. Bella.
So lately I have been sidetracked from my pleating by the ingenius Polly Verity. She has inspired me to start playing with curves. I bought a CAD program ViaCAD and have been rather obsessed lately, although that is starting to subside, more because the last two crease patterns I made didn’t work on the first try. I tend to discard things if they don’t work the first time around, a habit I am working to get past. So below are two crease patterns for two units and the pictures of what the finished units look like. I highly recommend you score with a stylus or a dead pen before you fold the creases. These can be tessellated and I recommend you use cardstock or some heavier paper although you can do them in copy paper. The designs make me think of futuristic architecture and are surprisingly strong.
There are more crease patterns and designs here http://flickr.com/photos/christine42/ . Everything is as usual creative commons release.