Archive for the ‘dollar bill origami’ Category
So I have ended up on a tangent that I would eventually like to use for posting tutorials for my students and have lectures students can view if absent. So I decided to try to create an origami tutorial. I may have done this design before I sadly don’t remember. Editing is a challenging business, as is seeing yourself (in all your redundant glory) on camera. So for those who do post tutorials online kudos, it’s a lot harder than it looks. I will within the next week post about Italy, but this comes first since it’s done. Bear with me as it is my first attempt at video instruction and it is not polished all pretty, plus I am using the camera in my mac which doesn’t allow for as much flexibility in filming. Youtube said it’s processing so here you go, remember creative commons applies to all unless stated otherwise. Happy holidays.
Below is an corrugated automata that doesn’t inch the way I originally plan, but sometimes the best laid plans fail.
1. First fold the dollar bill lengthwise with a mountain fold using the top and bottom of the one as a guide.
2. Fold over between one to two mm to the outside. This is to taste.
3. Mountain fold in half.
4. First orient the dollar bill like below. Take the crease and fold up to the inner part of the O.
5. Mountain fold so you are folding across the semicircle.
6. Fold the semicircle up to about the tip of the pyramid.
7.On an angle fold back the bottom edge of the bustier. The top part of the skirt angles because of a spreas squash. I recommend looking ahead to the next few steps first.
8. View from the back. Do the same symmetrically to the other side.
9. Back View-flip over.
10. Front view.
11. Fold down so there is about as much white as color.
12. Fold back up so the white is the bustier edge detail
13. Mountain fold edges on either side to shape bustier
14. Pull the center flap down
15. Flatten symmetrically as shown.
16. Shape edge of lower skirt on both sides symmetrically
17. Fold the bottom up to taste. In the back fold over the edges that are sticking out and tuck under the pleat at the waist. Pull apart the creases at the bottom to give 3 dimensionality to the bottom. It will not necessarily lie flat.
18. Now I push the pleat apart where the bust should be to make the bustier 3d. You are expanding the pleat only at the tip of the breast and then flattening the new creases. You can see the side view.
19. The last step is to push down the centerbar so that the bustier is more 3d and you only see the white band. Then you are done. Shape till happy.
So the push to finish old crap projects is on. Not that it’s garbage, I just haven’t really had time and impetus lately to actually start any projects I’ve laid out. I should explain my approach is rather ADHD and my scatterbrained approach means time is relative. I wish I had focus. Partially finished projects litter my place and it is frustrating to find incomplete ideas, manifest in paper.
Sorry, enough kvetching. What is great is the number of folders who have taken up this avenue of origami and are running with it. I look forward to seeing them reinvent the wheel and then make it brand new. So the first pic is a tessellation that looks to me like “gothic” styled crosses from one angle and flowers (which they are on the other side) from another. This is from two years ago and had been 1/3 finished for a long time. Well now it’s done if not clean, but I am not starting it over.
The dollar bill dresses came out of an hour spurt of dollar excess last weekend. It reminded me of a peculiar childhood habit of mine-tissue dresses made for Barbie and Skipper. My Mom was never one for Barbie’s, but I ended up getting one and a Skipper as a present for my ninth? birthday from a little girl named Candy. I would make dresses out of tissues and ripping them and tucking and pleating for fun. It was a solitary activity as I didn’t play with dolls a ton, but I still have a doll with her raggedy tissue dress. The grey one was simply an attempt to design with a square, sort of envisioned it as a grey silk chiffon. I have the grey dress roughly diagrammed and can post as soon as I know it isn’t an infinite repeat, so I will be asking the o-list about whether the grey one is running about. I would assume the dollar bill dresses are also repetitive although I haven’t seen them before. The one that feels most familiar is the banded dress with the accepted bodice. The top ones are flat and the other two dresses are 3d.
So this post highlights my distractability. This is an old test that I fully intended to expand, but never did. So I pulled it out, dusted it off and I’m working on figuring out the reference points for the piece so I can eventually tile it. The problem is it is deceptive, it looks simple, but sadly isn’t (at least for me) and is giving me a run for my money. I think I have all the reference lines, but the construction is still eluding me. Unfortunately I don’t always design in the way Joseph does (Wu). His locks are so him and in his case the deceptive simplicity is almost always including hidden internal lockish things that are painful, but consistently Wuvian (Wuesque, Jospephian, JoWuskian):P I don’t find my own designing to be that consistent and as such I confuse myself at times.
New Edit: (With an additional ;P at the current commentator): I should say that my comments about The JoWu” are just on what I’ve learned when he willingingly or unwillingly taught a model and observing him during exceedingly rare opportunities when I was able to see him in his natural Wuvian habitat. So take it for what it is, off the cuff analysis.
“Trapped Midpoints in a Celtic Cross”
Posted below are some takeout box varients.
Last, but not least, are some stats that show up on the admin homepage for this blog. It is interesting to see what you view as your most interesting work vs. what the readers find most interesting. I am using views as a measure of reader interest. Although I find dollar bill folding interesting from a design standpoint, I don’t consider it my most interesting work, but that is clearly what brings the most people here. It isn’t a negative or a positive thing, but simply a fact. It may be because I have more dollar bill designs with instructions posted or it may be that my primary interest with origami (tessellating) doesn’t strike the same cord, either way I still will post anything that strikes my fancy, but it does make me think if I ever try to do a book dollar bill designs might come first, boxes second, and modulars third.
Dollar Bill Flower Module Diagrams 23,811 views
Dollar Bill Butterfly Ring 14,302 views
Dollar Sun-Another Day Another Dollar Fold 6,482 views
More Modular Madness 6,082 views
Gothic Cuffs 4,774 views
2-D Modular Design Process and Diagrams 4,615 views
Hexagonal Dollar Bill Modular Instructions 4,476 views
Free Origami Furniture PDFs 2,605 views
Two fascinating weekends and a bunny in a row. Last weekend I was in San Francisco at a lovely event with lovely hosts who were fabulous. I thank everyone involved because you did an amazing job. SF was rainy, but I really enjoyed the Ferry building, a retrofitted building that now has trendy shops and some great foods and treats. The view was breathtaking and calming. Berkley had houses that embodied great craftmanship and farther north the landscape significantly changed and was its own type of wonderful. Pics here http://www.flickr.com/photos/christine42/second page currently.
This weekend I went to SOFA (Sculptural Objects and Fine Arts) at Navy Pier in Chicago. SOFA began with a look into the mind of Bubacco. A genius at glass he created a vision based on eternal damnation and it was ethereal and overwhelming. I was having processing issues I was so excited I was shaking like an overstimulated child at Christmas. It was a rather last minute decision to go and I found it beyond belief (as were the price tags that accompanied many of these pieces of art, including a glass one for $140,000.) Focusing on origami and the designs in that vein or inspirational in that vein tended to be fiber or wood art. There were two panels that were irregularly corrugated and a host of wooden vessels that made me think of a lot of the origami bowl design that is floating out there.
For origami art on a monumental scale one must turn to Kevin Box. An artist out of the Southwest he was there and graciously explained his design philosophy. He creates origami pieces and then casts them in metal. Appropriately placed in front of the window were you can view Lake Michigan was a 15? foot metal origami sailboat supported by “wooden” oars that brought it up to its height. He had near life sized origami horses and origami “sofas.” I have to say that the large origami horse was my favorite. His work and philosophy can be viewed at http://www.outsidetheboxstudio.com/
One of my favorite artists is Nishimura, first introduced to a lot of people on flickr by Ray Schamp. Nishimura creates these circles of movement and energy with precision that is hard to fathom. To my great pleasure I realized that she has changed from strictly straight line designs to creating her circles with curves. I greatly admire her work and running at $1,200-$4,900 at the show she had some of the most least expensive art I saw, but some of my favorite.
On a much more trivial note at dinner at KowKow a restaurant in Chicago that has the most tasty, crisp, and fresh eggrolls available a dollar bill bunny visited. As with all my designs if you have seen it before please state the source and a link with a picture if possible so I can link to it. Redundancy happens. This design is not exceptionally strict so I think that all proportions of money should work. Not exceptionally great from the front, but it is easier than a large percentage of my designs.
Stellated 12-gon. If you skip step 5 or vary the distance of the fold you change the number of modules needed. Given an n-gon the smaller the fold to the center the larger n (i.e. the number of bills) is.
Had to redo the diagrams as the originals went to the Land of the Lost. The second group of photos is work on combining boxpleating and goran pleating with deconstruction. This is most recent in a series. If interested more shots are on flickr. http://flickr.com/photos/christine42/ I also tested some flax with this pleating to see how it held up. If I can get large enough sheets I will probably also do some more with flax.
First boxpleated on diagonal. Went to close and decided to change orientation of box pleating.
I changed the boxpleating from diagonals to horizontal and vertical.
The next step was deconstructing the pleats. (i.e. pull them apart)
The pink bowl pictures are called the “Pink Lotus Bowl” and are the most recent of the tests. Main issue was the square was to small. The red bowsl are my finished initial full test. The last two images in the gallery are the moneyfolds I am asking people to check before I diagram them. Currently have three sets of diagrams being tested and when I get the all clear I’ll post them.
Recommendations if you wish to do these bowls.
1. Minimum of 12 inch paper
2. Use a heavy paper that is strong.
3. Keep the initial box pleat on the horizontal/vertical.
Oh St. Patty’s day is near!!! For many (I am only speaking of Chicago, cause that’s what I know) it is special day celebrated in any place that serves alcohol, by the Green Chicago River, or at the parade. In honor of such a green holiday I am posting triangular pyramid tip box instructions and a Celtic cross modular (In deference to it being the holiday of a saint and all.) The tip box is made from a bill and closes. You can fit the coins that go with the tip in it. Remember your server is harried and tip generously. The box was inspired by this box from Lorenzo Marchi. http://flickr.com/photos/lorenzomarchi/227362566/
The modular is of an almost identical unit that an Italian folder, Franco Pavarin, published, with one difference. I wrap a section around another section that forces a color change and it does change assembly methodology a bit. Thanks to Mark Kennedy for helping me get the information to clear that up. I like my unit better because it is stronger during assembly for at least the one completed modular. I made two with his and as I found the assembly to be harder. Soon I will post the 15 assembly varients I made.
Tip Box Instructions
1. Fold the creases as shown. Make the crease bidirectional i.e. fold in in both directions.
2. The vertices of the two squares are pulled down to meet each other. This action cause the basic two triangular pyramids to form.
3. In the triangle that is in the middle you are pushing up the triangle tip. You are using pre-existing creases.
4. Inside I pink the edges of the pyramid and flatten them clockwise. The second picture is what the bottom looks like.
5. You are flipping up the rim of the top of the container all the way around.
6. The bit of bill connecting the top and the bottom needs to be creased so the top can fit in the bottom.
7. The extra flap needs to be folded so it is the same size as the rim. I folded it in on pre-existing creases.
8. The tips are folded in so that the flap can hold the lid closed.
9. Congratulations close the box…you are done.