Archive for the ‘origami diagrams’ Category
So Himanshu Agrawal asked a week or two ago about doing diagrams for a bookmark I posted pictoral diagrams for and I said sure that sounds great. Wow are his diagrams wonderful. I did not expect anything so wonderfully done and really appreciate the work he put into it. Diagramming is a talent I don’t have and Himanshu’s diagrams are concise and even are colored. He is on facebook and flickr.
Link to an amazing dragon done for Dell computers from his flickr pics-amazing!
Flower Instructions, great video instructions for Sun Dial (not mine), Centerfold Pictures, New Curvy Bits-”Merged Curves”
Flower instructions video I made.
The flower combines some aspects of two flowers (one of which is the Lotus flower) and another I think I’ve seen and then modifies and shapes the product. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5eeJScdEQ4
Video instructions for the Sun Dial I originally posted pictoral instructions for were made and posted here http://oqueemeuenosso.blogspot.com/2010/08/origami-modular-relogio-do-sol-sun-dial.html The blog is also great to check out; it has great links and instructions. It is very well done and I always appreciate people making instructions since mine tend to be minimalistic. The blog were it is posted http://oqueemeuenosso.blogspot.com/ .
Centerfold-The organizers really worked hard and so many people praised the bag it wasn’t even funny. So thanks to everyone who is willing to put in the work. Positives-I liked the lack of ticketing, but that may just be personal preference. The hotel let the rooms be used later than initially indicated. The bar was great, drinkable coffee a dollar and if you wanted it with a bit of chemical happiness that was very reasonable. The DJ in the bar was great. They organized shuttles to the exhibit. Negatives-Just the smells in the hotel, it was not clean the smell of stale cigarette smell was overwhelming, but I also am hypersensitive to these things. Indiana reststops scare me I actually took photos in a stall just so I’d have proof of the stuff I saw etched into the stall walls and door. So a thank you to everyone that ran it, I know it’s a boatload of work. To the people I met-you were wonderful, keep playing around. To everyone I should have met but didn’t, hopefully I will some you at some future time. Shar’s presentation of some 5OSME slides reminded James and I how awesome that was. There was a lot of 5OSME people there. The guests were Robert Lang, Tomoko Fuse, and David Brill. Took a cat class with David. Missed Tomoko and Langs classes cause I can’t tell time.
Here are where the Centerfold photos start http://www.flickr.com/photos/christine42/4922078643/
Finally these are some of the curved pieces I’ve been working on. Getting larger is an ongoing challenge of mine, as is thinking of making things decent for display instead of everything being tests and getting distracted by the next shiny idea.
For people who have sent requests for things I apologize as I spent the better part of the last three weeks away from home and if it is for computer based candy container diagrams my other computer is not functioning right now. I will send stuff when I have the computer up and running.
As usual if anyone has seen this modular please post information and links as applicable. The unit was designed to create the same effect (although with a completely seperate unit) that another 3d wreath has. The units are not remotely similar, and sadly my unit does not have the flexibility or strength that the other one has. The modular can be done in 8 or 20 depending on the variation, of which there are many. The instructions are for the 20 unit variation. As for the oddly bolded sections that is something the blog is doing and I can’t fix-since wordpress is free I can’t complain.
2. Fold as indicated and crease and then undo.
3. Fold the bottom right edge to crease line
4. Fold tips around edge and tuck them inside.
5. Take top point and fold to bottom point and crease.
6. Take the two flaps folded in the last step and fold inside the pocket. You will have to reverse the direction of the crease on the front fold.
7. Put the unit sideways and fold the tip so it is roughly parallel with the vertex of the obtuse angle. Do it one and then rotate the unit and do it the other way.
8. Finished unit, make twenty total
9. Tuck in as indicated. Make sure that you are tucked in on both sides.
10. Keep adding units until you have the original photo.
Some fun sites.
Made an instructable for one of the containers
1. First fold the dollar bill lengthwise with a mountain fold using the top and bottom of the one as a guide.
2. Fold over between one to two mm to the outside. This is to taste.
3. Mountain fold in half.
4. First orient the dollar bill like below. Take the crease and fold up to the inner part of the O.
5. Mountain fold so you are folding across the semicircle.
6. Fold the semicircle up to about the tip of the pyramid.
7.On an angle fold back the bottom edge of the bustier. The top part of the skirt angles because of a spreas squash. I recommend looking ahead to the next few steps first.
8. View from the back. Do the same symmetrically to the other side.
9. Back View-flip over.
10. Front view.
11. Fold down so there is about as much white as color.
12. Fold back up so the white is the bustier edge detail
13. Mountain fold edges on either side to shape bustier
14. Pull the center flap down
15. Flatten symmetrically as shown.
16. Shape edge of lower skirt on both sides symmetrically
17. Fold the bottom up to taste. In the back fold over the edges that are sticking out and tuck under the pleat at the waist. Pull apart the creases at the bottom to give 3 dimensionality to the bottom. It will not necessarily lie flat.
18. Now I push the pleat apart where the bust should be to make the bustier 3d. You are expanding the pleat only at the tip of the breast and then flattening the new creases. You can see the side view.
19. The last step is to push down the centerbar so that the bustier is more 3d and you only see the white band. Then you are done. Shape till happy.
1. This starts from a square. I recommend a thin paper, kami is fine. Fold in half lengthwise and then quarter.
2. Then fold in eighths as shown above.
3. Flip over.
4. From the eighth crease to the left of the center crease you will fold it 1/3 away from the center line. You will repeat this action 2 more times on that side. Then repeat on the other side.
5. Mountain fold to a little less than a third away from the bottom. A lot of these folds are to taste.
6. Then fold back up-about a quarter inch.
7,8. A little less than a half inch below mountain fold and then bring it back down about a quarter. This is the belt area and will be fairly thick. Mountain fold the dress back down to get the belt as shown in the picture.
9. You are spreading the pleat in the back so the edge from the tip of the pleat goes to the bottom of the dress. It folds back on the first pleat. You can see the light mountain folds in the previous step. The spread to the top is to taste.
10. If you like the neckline as is you’re done, otherwise(this works better if the belt is bigger and the bodice shorter)….To do the neckline mountain fold as indicated symmetrically on both sides. Fold the rest on a curve to taste.
11. To flatten on the back you will need to spread the pleats a bit.
12. These are minor variations. I did a small inside reverse fold on the bottom, then I did it to the other side. The final dress I pulled apart the skirt pleats lightly and enlarged the belt so it became more of a bodice.
It is easy to play with these and simple corrugations will work fine in the skirt area. Changing the size of the belt and how you fold the neckline can greatly modify the aesthetics of the dress. Plus it would be easy to play with the bodice pleats.
So I originally was waiting until my ordered copy of Origami Tessellations: Awe Inspiring Geometric Designs came to write a review about Eric’s new book, but while it hasn’t come a copy has come from another source. To be fair this review is hardly unbiased as I know Eric and he is in part responsible for sending me down this path of obsession. He is always trying to bring people into the tessellating fold and his book is part of this.
The book starts off explaining what a tessellation is, a basic history of origami tessellations, and how to do a basic grid. He shows the fundamentals of tessellation design, such as how to create pleate intersections both with a square based grid and a equilateral triangle based grid. Interspersed throughout are pictures of tessellations that appear in Islamic architecture. After showing basic twists and folds with computer illustrations he has a beginners section on tessellations. Number two, Spread Hexagons, is my favorite, probably because it was the tessellation that he had out that I looked at when we met at OUSA (Oops edit 2.5 not 3.5 years ago). Five by four has a beautifully modern look, while Chateau-Chinon by Christiane Bettens evokes traditional tilings. His intermediate projects are great introductions to folding designs with more than one type of fold/twist. My personal favorite in the book is Negative Space Stars, a design that seems impossible without cuts is clean and compelling. The one side clean negative stars and the other a pattern that really evokes the Islamic Tessellations that I personally love so much.
At the end of the book is a gallery and has tessellations from a wide range of people; Robert Lang, Joel Cooper, Christiane Bettens, Chris Palmer, Polly Verity, Sipho Mabona, Eric (of course), and me. I have to say it was very surprising when Eric first asked if he could include some of my tessellations as I hadn’t been folding tessellations very long. The creating and designing of tessellations has exploded recently and I know that it is in large part to Eric, to the Flickr group he started and his website http://www.origamitessellations.com. The book is as clear and concise as a book can be in teaching origami tessellations. Purchasing a copy is a great idea for the math lover, origami lover, art lover, or just anyone who can find the beauty in the transformation of paper into art.
So order here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1568814518?ie=UTF8&tag=origamitessel-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1568814518 or go to his website to order.
Recent mod of an old and problematic tessellation. I made the grid about a mm to small and it created a host of problems so I took photos and then modified it a bit.
Pretty old school for my tessellations design, but I like it well enough.
Happy early Valentine’s Day.
I had posted a heart box and said instructions were forthcoming so here they are http://www.flickr.com/photos/christine42/3241811189/in/photostream/ . This is a simple design, but I have not seen the locking mechanism or the heart edges before. (Standard disclaimer for anything I design and post) If you have seen the box before please post applicable links and/or information. My recommendation is you work with a heavier paper. Copy paper or ultrabright paper works just fine. I like a 7-8 inch square to start out with although a 6 inch works. Best of luck.
This is one of those folds that is so simple that I suspect it has to have been designed before. What I really like about it is it’s strength and good use of paper. Its 3 in high and a 3.5 by 3.5 inch. Given that this vellum started out as a regular 8.5×11 cut into a 8.5 inch square I think the space that is kept is great and it is very strong, as demonstrated
As is usual if this has been done before please post applicable information and a link if possible.
Instructions start here
Also I am posting a really rough first draft of a pillow based off the Oceania Box. Eric’s comment about made me think about some earlier faux suede I tried tessellating this summer. I think I may have to suck it up and buy some real suede or leather to get the body that I want for the design.
The faux suede does not have enough body to hold the separated to curve the pleats. Freehanding the ironing not a good idea. My eyeball isn’t that good. I should sew across the base of the pleats before sewing for assembly. When I bought this I was at an upholstery fabric store. I absolutely loved a vivid turquoise blue leather that I saw, this was bought in place of leather cause of cost. I will play with this more when I have time.
As some of you know I am fascinated with three dimensional tessellations. This is a different and much simpler process than I typically use, so I figured it lent itself more to online instructions. This does assume a certain level of ability. First the grid should really be 32nds if you want to get repeated stars. 16ths would allow you to make about one star I suspect. The grid I used was 48ths. For instructions on how to make a grid link to Eric’s origami tessellations website and look it up and that also goes for a triangle twist.
Step one is creating the first triangle twist.
Secondly you arrange the grid as shown, as if to do another triangle twist. But don’t!
Push the tip, where the lines intersect in.
From the edge of the pushed in hexagon go over two spaces and arrange the pleats as if you are going to create a triangular twist. The repeat the “concave” hexagon.
Then going upwards from the new concave hexagon do the same thing. I also added a triangle twist on the outer edge of the emerging larger hexagon. Then another triangle twist on the middle “concave” hexagon.
Keep repeating around, till you have formed a hexagon of the pushed in hexagons. The triangle twists are in the directions shown below, every other one faces the other.
The other side is where it gets its name. This is the basic unit. The process repeats from each of the triangle twists. Refer to the first two pictures for the full tessellation.
The nice thing is once you’ve constrained the free paper there are at least 10 easy mods that will change the form completely. I’ll leave them to you to find, but remember part of origami is discovery. Push things in a little differently and a new design is born.
Soon I have a pillow that is a test I’ll publish. The front is done I just need to pull out my sewing machine and filler. I also had some earlier tests that collected dust, as most stuff I test does (by the necessity of time) I pulled out and started playing with. I am currently not friends with my iron though. I might splurge on a cord free one and I think I’ve come around to “investing” (that’s the word I’m using instead of indulging) in a craftrobo pro.